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custom built bait tank

 
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lake and stream
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 11, 2008 7:12 am    Post subject: custom built bait tank Reply with quote

Guys i have decided that i am going to build a custom bait tank in my boat.i do alot of fiberglass work here at my shop building stuff in cars and trucks so i figured why not just build one out of glass and make it fit perfect in my boat.it will be a wood frame with a nice thick coat of glass.insulated of course with a filter area ,a oxygen bottle holder,stailess parts and a fold up seat lid.

i want to make this thing as cool as poss. so i figured i would put lights..both a red and a white,2 pumps 1 for filter,1 for current with a adjustment valve,

anything else you guys would have in your tank if you could make one.
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Yaz
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 11, 2008 8:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Let me help you out here. I done the exact same thing. I think I have some pics. I'll also help you avoid some things that I ended up changing because they either didn't work, or I just didn't like it.. Give me a little time here, and I'll put up some pics of my project.


Yaz
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lake and stream
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 12, 2008 4:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

cant wait to see, i am thinking something along the lines of the 40 gall. size.
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Red over White
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 13, 2008 11:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

My thought's would be a concave bottom w/central infloor drain and recessed tangital water inlet for an obstruction free bait side. A large filter side utilizing vertical filtering getting progressively tighter w/charcoal at the last stage. An adjustable top water bait side skimmer that goes into the first stage of the filter to eliminate foam and to help off gas w/a vent right in that area. Operating capacity would have the water almost to the top of the bait side to help w/sloshing. Built in end of day pump out ability. Recessed oxygen stone in the bait side under the water inlet or just in it. Onboard storage for salt, ammo remover, fuses, spare pump etc.. Built in rod holders might be a good idea as well. If I lived in skippie country I would likely build in some tubes on one end as well. with it's own seperate pump manifold. Weight might be a concern when using fiberglass, but likely worth it in the end.
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Yaz
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 13, 2008 9:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The first pic is under the back-facing seat. The filter pump (sits in the filter located in the bilge) is on a rocker switch. 2" overflow drain, water in from the filter, valve and hose to the filter, and fresh water intake. Timer switch to the venturi pump in the tank. The filtered water also has a spray bar inside the tank. Since the bottom of the tank sits about 8" above the water line, there is another valve that empties the tank. Its slow, but if your moving even at trolling motor speed, it will empty enough to change the water in about 5 minutes. There is enough room for salt, extra filter media, net, and all the chemicals. The battery sits directly under the tank.







I didn't have enough room for a 50 gal. bait tank, and a seat, and a cooler, So I made my tank the seat, one for the driver, and one facing toward the back of the boat when fishing. I found a specialty 100 gal. poly drum, and cut it in 1/2. I used 3/4 finished on one side plywood to enclose the tank. I did not get marine grade, as I knew I was going to fiberglass the outside. I also put several coats of fglass resin on the inside to seal it from moisture. Once I got the wood put together in the shape I wanted, I put the tank in, and ran all the plumbing where it needed to be. I then used two part foam and poured around the whole tank, with the exception of the back where the plumbing is. I screwed the top on, and foamed the top. I used cardboard and waxed paper to form the hole to the top of the tank, so I wouldn't have to dig the foam out of the tank. I then glued and screwed the top on, and started the fiberglass work. The filter is a 2 1/2 gallon bucket, with the pump in the bottom. I don't have a pic of it yet. But, it works really well.

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Red over White
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 14, 2008 7:20 am    Post subject: Form and Function Reply with quote

Yaz, that looks awesome. Great looking work, the fit and finish is top notch. Is that a built in temp gauge on there? Nice. I truely understand the thought, time and effort put into that project, well done.

Did you use 2 or 4 lb. foam for insulation? Did it try to distort the tank at all?
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SeeinStripes
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 14, 2008 5:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

WHOA. I'd like to see that in action....I'm sure I know a few places to try it out. Awesome Tank!
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Brett Wendel
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 14, 2008 7:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yaz,

Do you have the tank spun around in the pics or do you sit on the lid and have the seat facing out the back? It looks like a really nice set-up. I'd be interested in hearing more about your filtration, etc.

Brett
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Yaz
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 15, 2008 9:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The padded seat is facing backwards. I use my throwable cushion as a seat in the front. I usually don't sit when I'm running anyway, so that was why I decided to do it that way.

Here is a pic of the filter. Its a 21/2 gallon bucket with a tight sealing lid. I cut another bucket and made the basket to hold the filter/carbon media. There is about three inches of space for clean water in the bottom, and about 8 inches for filter material. A 500gph through hull pump is what I used. I'm lucky in that I have a lot of space with easy access in the bilge of the boat, or that would not have been possible.

I have never had a problem with the lid leaking, but I only run the filter when I'm fishing, gathering, or storing bait. I'm afraid the lid may pop when I'm trailering the boat, and loose all the water out of the tank.

Red over White, that is a built in temp gauge, and I can't tell you off the top of my head the foam density. Its what I use in my taxidermy work.



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lake and stream
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 15, 2008 10:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

we are on the same page , mine will sit infront of my console and the filter will be built into the top of the unit. i also want a pure O2 injection fitting on the outlet side of the pump that will be on the bottom of the tank on one side to help make the current i need. i figure that if i can force those little baby bubbles out of the same hole as the clean water from the filter i should be in good shape.

i was wondering if i put a screen like the screens you find in a sink on the end of the outlet you guys think it would have the same effect it does in the sink? you know how it makes it all foamy like?and smooths out the flow.

i like the temp gauge ,thats a good idea ,is that one from a grill?

also lights..i hate a dark tank Very Happy i was thinking red or purple in the tank
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Brett Wendel
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 15, 2008 6:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
i like the temp gauge ,thats a good idea ,is that one from a grill?


I hope not, unless you are using one of those fish that lives at the bottom of the ocean in volcano vent tubes for bait. Laughing


Hey Yaz, now you have me curious as to what boat your floating?

thanks
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lake and stream
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 16, 2008 7:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

was talking more or less about the style with the probe on the back.


on the pump size do you think it is better to overkill and slow them down with valves or just go with a smaller pump? like should i use the standard 350 rule or goto the 1100 attwood? and just turn the out put down.
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Red over White
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 16, 2008 8:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

lake and stream wrote:


i was wondering if i put a screen like the screens you find in a sink on the end of the outlet you guys think it would have the same effect it does in the sink? you know how it makes it all foamy like?and smooths out the flow.

also lights..i hate a dark tank Very Happy i was thinking red or purple in the tank


L&S,
Sink aerators do need to have air intrained to give that foamy flow and a screen would get clogged w'slime pretty quick I would think. Lights inside are a good idea, they say baits that aren't subject to light and then dark repeatedly are less stressed. For a forty gallon tank, a 500 GPH pump is about right. Running a bigger pump with backpressure may shorten it's life span a lot. Check out the Keep Alive directional inlet if you haven't already, it creates a gentle flow along the wall of the tank and creates a good spin w/o beating up the baits.
http://livebaitlarry.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=25_109_122&products_id=265
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Yaz
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 16, 2008 9:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

brett30030 wrote:
Quote:
i like the temp gauge ,thats a good idea ,is that one from a grill?


I hope not, unless you are using one of those fish that lives at the bottom of the ocean in volcano vent tubes for bait. Laughing

It is similar, but reads from 40 to 100. I figure if the water temps are below or above, I'm not fishin'. I can't remember where I got it.


Hey Yaz, now you have me curious as to what boat your floating?

An old 1982 Ranger center console bay boat, that I have completely refurbished. It was before they had a raised casting deck in the back, so its open to the transom. I took out the typical cooler/seat and replaced it with the bait tank. I then moved the entire console forward about a foot, to give me room to work in the back.



thanks
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lake and stream
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 16, 2008 7:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

the idea was to put the screen on the return side after the filter so there would be no scales and the air would come from the O2 being pumped in just before the screen.


i like the part listed above as well looks good too.
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